创意性服装设计研究外文文献翻译

毕设附件外文文献翻译原文及译文

原文

Thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign作者MartinG

Introduction

Sources of inspiration and its personal interpretation, visually and technically,play

an important role in the design process, in increasing creativity. Clothingdesignstudies

and the creative role of design inspiration, during the early informal and actualclothingdesignprocessesisopentoscientificinvestigationlikeaestheticallydrivendesig

ns in otherdomains.

Studying creative fashiondesign asprocess and product isseen moreproblematic

than other design-led industries, as the interaction between thedesignelements and principles, material properties, adaptation and modification ofdesigninspiration are

complex. Clothing design, as a variety of aestheticand functionaldesign processes, shares many characteristics of engineering designprocess.

Research

and

observation

are

critically

important

in

the

fashion

business.Byresearching and observing, designers gather background information

fordesign,including studying current and future fashion trends and try to predict what themajority of their customers will want in the foreseeable future. In orderto keep upwiththechangingworldoffashion,fashionawarenessshouldbecomesecondnatureto every

clothingdesigner.

Design and clothing a s a visual and tactile sensor ydesign

It is well known that design is two things: process and product, as verb andnoun.As design problem solution process, it is researching, setting the source ofinspiration,planning,organizingtomeetagoal,carryingoutaccordingtoaparticularpurposeandcreating.Asproductitistheendresult,anintendedarrangementthatistheoutcomeof

thatprocess orplan.

Clothing is an example of applied design, eventhe most exciting, originalideamust

show awareness of its practical purpose and environment. We

realisethatsomeartispure,\al

purposeand use. Design as process is planning to meet a goal, and thus applies toeverything

intentionally created for a purpose. The steps and order of the processareessentially the same regardless of the end product. These steps are very similartomanagement as

aplanning process.

Design as man madeproduct and service falls into two major

categories:sensoryandbehavioural.Sensorydesignisperceivedthroughthesenses,andisclassifi

edasvisual, auditory, olfactory, tactile and gustatory. Behavioural design is

plannedaction.Manyproducts,however,includeaspectsofboth,becausedesignmaybeperceivedthroughthesensesandtheninterpretedbehaviourally.Afashionshow,forexample,include both sensory and behaviouraldesigns.

R esearchmethodology andfindings

The importance of source of inspiration and their role in creative clothingdesignhasbeenlittleunderstoodand,therefore,rarelyreceivedattentioninthisindustry.[6],[ 7], [ 8] Eckert and Stacey (1998, 2000, 2003) studied knitwear design case,whichsharesmanycharacteristicsofcomplexengineeringprojectsandasanexampleof\

ticaldesign\inafastmovingandhighly competitive manufacturing industry.Their work

included a large ethnographic study of the knitwear industry,whichproduced a detailed design process model andananalysis of the causesofcommunication problems within design

teams.

[15]

M?kirinne-Croft

et

al.

(1996)triedtoexplainthefashiondesignprocessintermsofquantummechanicsandpsychoanalysisandseedesigncreativity

astheultimatemystery;theirdescriptionofthe

design process

issimplistic.

Theauthorhasundertakenaprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudies,basedonobservationandinterviews,lookingatready-to-wear(RTW)clothingdesign;insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricapproachcombinesethnographicobservationalmetho

dswiththeknowledgeanalysistechniquesofartificialintelligence.Itis

situationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsare

effectivein

insufficient,whenbroadunderstanding of an industry is needed as in the fashion industry,

not just a casestudyof a single individual orcompany.

In this research, the creative role ofsources of inspiration in visual clothingdesign

by novice and expert clothing designers was assessed throughempiricalresearch. As subjects, 16 talented clothing designers, 11 university-level

fashiondesignstudentsinFashionDesignDepartmentatDokuzEylulUniversityandfiveprofessional designers participated in the experiment carried out in this

research.Thefirstgroupofsubjectsincludedadvancedfashiondesignstudents,seventalentedstudentsselectedfromthethirdandfourthyearofundergraduatestudies,andalsofourstudentsofpo

stgraduatestudies,whoalsoworksasafreelanceorparttimeassistantdesignersintheclothingindu

stry.Thesecondgroupwascomposedoffiveprofessional designers with a minimum of 5 years of experience in clothingindustry.Sour cesof inspira tionin clothingdesign

Where does the fashion designer get ideas and inspiration for new styles?Theanswer is everywhere and everything. Anything visual and tactile, in fact sensual,canbeasourceofinspirationforagarment.Throughtelevision,thedesignerexperience

sall the wonders of the entertainment world. In films, the designer is exposed to theinfluencesofallthearts,andlifestylesthroughouttheworld.Becauseconsumersareexposed to

movies through international distribution, films prime their audiences toaccept new fashions inspired by the costumes. Museum exhibits, art shows,worldhappenings, expositions,

theatres,

music, dance and world travel are all sources

ofdesigninspirationtofashiondesigners.Thefashionsofthepastarealsoarichsourceofdesigninspi

ration. Whilealwaysalerttothenewandexciting,fashiondesignersnever lose sight of the past,

they use old things in new ways.

As stated the inspiration for a garment within a collection or for anentirecollection can

come

from

an

infinite

variety

of

sources.

Sources

the

ofinspirationareoftenlinkedtothesocial\

\Understanding the state of current fashion and searching for ideas and

sourcesofinspiration involveslookingatart objectsandbooks, goingon trips to places

likeParis and Milan, visiting museums, watching people on streets and going on countrywalks. Designers are most creative when they are directly exposed to the

sourcesofideas.

On the other hand, it has been observed in the fashion industry that there aretwofundamental approaches in the creative clothing design processes:

(1) material, thus fabric, inspired clothing design process;and

(2) conceptual clothing design process, such as several themes originated fromthe

universe of arts, nature orproducts.

It is known that the high-fashion \also

called theme, for their collection in order to be more creative andoriginal.

The

major

types

of

idea

sources

in

design-led

industries

are

previousproducts,artifacts,naturalobjectsandphenomena.Incaseofclothingdesign,garments

,fabricsand trims as previous products, play an important role in sources ofinspiration.Although,thereisabroadrecognitionthat

bymodification of previous

muchofthedesign

proceeds

ideas, in case of fabric inspired clothing

design,designerssearch for new forms and styles with newly developed or invented materials.Forexample,thedevelopmentofelasthenfabrics,suchasLycra,inspireddesignerstofigure-hugging silhouettes.

Conclusions

Anything visual and tactile, in fact sensual, can be a source of inspirationinfashion design. Design ideas do not simply materialize out of thin air. First,thedesigner does careful

research,

but what makes a designer's collection

specialandoriginalishisorheruniqueinterpretationofdesignsources.Therefore,inordertobemorecreativeandoriginalthesourcesofinspirationplayanimportantroleinclothingdesign.

Researchandawarenessarethekeytocreativity.Designersmustlearnmostofall to keep their

eyes

open,

to

develop

their

skills

of

observation,

to

absorbvisualideas,blendthemandtranslate

themintoclothesthattheircustomerswilllike.Thedesign

process shows that realistic outside

influences

observation of

andneeds,extensiveresearchandawarenessandlogicalthinkingandorder,removeagreatdealofth

esupposed\designasproductan

dprocessandhasmasteredtheuseofappropriatematerialsandadaptation techniques can be \

successfulfashionproduct.

Sources of inspiration are used at the early stages of design and throughouttheentire design process. From the findings of this research, the role of sourcesofinspiration in clothing designcan be summarisedas follows:

- increasing originality andcreativity;

- making the design processeasy;

- deriving harmonious colourschemesdirectly;

- maintaining harmony and uniformity of the collection;

- deriving technical acumen from products inspired, especially

frompreviousgarments;

- understanding the fashion appropriation of the season;and

- drawingthe borders for the designframework.

创意性服装设计研究

作者：马丁

引言

灵感的来源及其个体性、可见性和技术性，这些对提高设计过程中的创造力方面起着重要的作用。服装设计研究和设计灵感的创造性，早期非正式的和实际的服

装设计流程是开放性的，就像其他领域中以美学为导向的设计。

学习创意型服装设计，其流程和产品比其他设计驱动的行业存在更多的问题，设计元素、原则、面料的特性等设计灵感之间的交互关系是很复杂的。服装设计，包含各种各样的视觉审美和功能设计流程、甚至共享工程设计过程中的许多设计元素。

对时尚服装业进行研究和观察是至关重要的。通过研究和观察，设计师可以收集背景资料，包括研究当前和未来的时尚服装设计潮流，并试图预测大多数客户所

希望的设计风格。为了跟上不断变化的时尚服装设计，时尚意识应成为每一个服装

设计师的第二天性。

服装设计是一个包含视觉和触觉的感官设计

众所周知，设计包括两件事情:工艺创造过程和产品展示，这两者之间的关

系就好比动词和名词的关系。作为一个设计问题解决方案的过程,它是灵感的来 源，并通过计划、组织以实现一个最终目标。而产品是其计划的、最终设计的结果。

服装就是应用设计的一个例子，即使是最激动人心的、最初的构想也必须向人

们展示其实用目的。虽然我们已经意识到一些艺术是纯粹的，即“艺术至上艺术”，但是，世界上大多数艺术作品设计的最初目的都在于其实用性。设计作为一个工艺过程，应当考虑和计划实现某一特定的目标，并适时进行创新。从本质上讲，设计

过程的步骤与顺序同样应当考虑产品的实用性。这些步骤与管理规划的过程非常相

似。

人为设计的产品和服务可以分为两大部类：感觉和行为。感官设计是通过感官

而获得的，可以将其分为视觉、听觉、嗅觉、触觉和味觉的获得。行为设计是有计划的行动。然而，许多产品的创作过程都包括感官设计与行为设计两个方面，因为设计灵感需要通过感官获得并通过行为来解释。例如，一场时装表演既包括感觉

设计也包括行为设计。

研究方法和研究结果人们对创意性灵感的来源及其在创意服装设计中的重要性一直知之甚少，因

此，这个行业也很少得到人们的关注。埃克特和斯泰西研究了针织品设计的案例，这一类的服装设计参考借鉴了很多复杂的工程设计中的设计元素和设计思路。例

如：快速变化和高度竞争的制造业中的“实用设计”。在他们的设计工作中，很多内容都涉及到针织行业的大量研究，而本研究开发制作一个详细的设计过程模型，以

及分析了设计团队内部的沟通问题。马卡尼等人试图解释量子力学和心理分析在时尚服装设计过程中的应用，以探索创意性设计的终极奥秘。他们深入浅出的描述了设计过程。

本文进行了一系列的实证研究，主要是通过观察和访谈。实地调研、半结构化访谈和半驱动型设计的研究方法，因此来探索成衣服装设计。这种将理论和实际调

研相结合的实证研究方法，可以有效的使用在传统的知识获取方法不足的情况下，不过在研究中，要特别需要广泛地了解一个行业，比如：时尚界，不只是要对单个人或公司进行实证研究，要尽可能选择更多的案例进行研究。特别是在传统的知识获取方法不足的情况下，它是可以得到有效的应用，不过需要指出的

是，特别需要对一个行业进行一个广泛地了解，比如：时尚界，不只是要对单个 人或公司进行实证研究，要尽可能选择更多的案例进行研究。在本研究中，服装

设计过程中的创造性设计灵感，主要来源于那些刚开始从

事设计工作的新手设计师，他们还没有形成固定的思维，因此，有许多新的不受

拘束的想法，这是服装设计灵感的一大来，此外一些服装设计专家，他们对实现需

求和消费者的偏好有着敏锐的观察力，因此，可以有针对性的提出新的设计思路，这对创新性服装设计而言，也是很重要的。当然，是否真实如此，需要进行一系

列的实证研究来证实。我们特意选择了16个优秀的服装设计师，11个时装设计专业

在读学生，和五个专业的设计师，参与实证研究。将他们分为几个考察一组，第

一组，主要是那些高级时装设计专业的在读学生，还有七个有才华的大三和大四学生，还有四名服装设计研究生，他们平时都是在一些服装设计公司实习。第二组则

是由在服装行业的五个专业设计师组成，他们都至少有5年的服装设计经验。

服装设计的灵感来源

服装设计师从哪里获得新款式设计的构想和灵感呢?答案即灵感无处不在。实际上，任何视觉和触觉上的感官体验都可以是服装设计灵感的源泉。通过电视，设计师可以体验五彩缤纷的全球娱乐世界。在看电影的过程中，设计师则能感受世界各地的艺术与生活方式。通过国际经销，电影观众可以通过有设计灵感的服

装接受新时尚。博物馆展品、艺术节目展示、世界事件、博览会、剧院、音乐、舞蹈和旅游都是时装设计师的设计灵感来源。过去的时尚也是他们一个丰富的设计灵

感来源。虽然，对于新的和刺激人心的事物，服装设计师们需要时时保持警惕，但他们从来不会忘记过去，通常情况下，他们会采用新的方式去利用旧的东西。

如上所述，一组服装设计的灵感来源多种多样。灵感来源往往与社会“时代精神”（也称之为“时代思潮”）息息相关。在对当前时尚了解的前提下，不断寻找

各种创意和灵感源泉，例如博览艺术品和书籍，去巴黎和米兰旅行并进行考察，参观博物馆，或行走于各国观察不同的人群等。我们发现，当直接接触创意来源时，设计师们是最具创造力的。

另一方面，在时尚界，服装设计的创意过程包括两种基本方法:

( 1)实物能激发服装设计的创作过程；

( 2)概念化的服装设计过程，如源于宇宙的艺术、大自然或产品。众所周知，

高调时尚的“名誉”设计师提出了这样一个概念模型，为了使其

更具有创造力和原创性，我们可以称之为主旋律。强调以设计为先导的产业，其设

计思想的来源包括先前设计的产品、人工产

品、自然物品与自然现象。就服装设计来看，之前的设计风格、面料和其他配件在设计师的灵感来源中发挥着十分重要的作用。尽管人们已经广泛认可，大部分的设

计过程都是在修改先前创意理念的基础上完成的，深受编织物的启发，服装设计师们便开始寻找设计的新款式和风格。在这种情况下一个样式通常为起点的技术材料

的可能性。例如，弹力纤维面料的发展激发了设计师们设计紧身服装的灵感。 结论

实际上，任何感官视觉和触觉，都可以是时装设计灵感的源泉。设计理念不是凭空出现的。首先，设计师在设计时，会进行仔细的分析，正是他们的原始设计想法，虽然可能是比较随性的，但是这些特殊的信息可以成为他设计的灵感。因此，为了使服装设计更有创意性，设计师的原始想法和灵感在服装设计中起着重要的作用。

一个人的探索心和其意识是其创造力的关键。设计师必须认识到，对他们而言，

要想保持有创意性的设计，最重要的是保持一个开阔的眼界，并不断地发展他们的观察能力，对视觉方面的信息，吸收并融合他们，把这些灵感转换成客户喜欢的衣服。整一研究发现表明，作为设计师，要具备一个敏锐的观察力，时刻捕捉到灵感，并将之应用到具体服装设计中。设计师要对服装设计过程有一个深入地理解，并将在日常生活中通过观察而获得的灵感，转化为现实中的顾客喜爱的成功服装产品。

灵感来源被用于设计的早期阶段与整个设计过程中。本文的研究结果表明，服装

设计灵感来源的作用可以概括如下:

-提升创意和创造力； -使设计过程简单;

-直接获得和谐的配色方案;

-保持设计的和谐与统一;

- 从产品设计尤其是之前的服装设计灵感中获得技术与智慧;

-了解季节的流行时尚;

-绘制设计框架。

文献出处：Ma r t i n G. \

clothingdesign.\rnational J ournalof Clothing Science and Technology 18.4 (2016):278-293.

本文来源：https://www.bwwdw.com/article/tpjx.html