钟表中英文对照术语表

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钟表中英文对照术语表,希望对各位表迷有所帮助

10J - 10天动力储备

Abbreviation for 10 days power reserve in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“10 days power reserve - 10天动力储备”的缩写。

24H - 24小时表盘

Abbreviation for \在百达翡丽而言是“24-hour dial - 24 小时表盘”的缩写。

Amplitude - 摆幅

Measurement in degrees of the movement of a balance and spring assembly: amplitude is the angle between the position of equilibrium and its maximum elongation.测量摆轮游丝装置的摆动角度:摆幅即是游丝装置的平衡位置与最大距角之间的角度。

Analogue - 指针式时间显示

Refers to time display using hands.指采用指针来显示时间。

Aperture - 视窗、孔径

Dial opening revealing the indications provided on discs rotating under the dial.表盘上的开孔,可看见表盘下的转盘的显示信息。

Applique - 镶刻

Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to or riveted to the dial. At Patek Philippe, appliques are always in gold and are sometimes diamond-set.固定在表盘上的凸起数字或时间刻度。百达翡丽钟表的镶刻通常用金打造,有时亦会镶嵌钻石。

Appropriage - 抛磨修整

An activity carried out by the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmakers themselves perform certain finishing operations such as polishing steel parts or

chamfering bridges.顶级复杂功能(Grand Complications)作坊从事的一项工作。制表师亲自进行一些修正操作,如磨光钢部件和斜切桥板等。

Aquanaut - Aquanaut系列

A collection inspired by the Nautilus, created in 1996. It is distinguished by the complexity of its case shape, equipped with a screw-down crown, framing a superbly finished black textured dial. Aquanaut watches are available in three sizes (small, medium and large) and in two versions (gold and steel), on a \composite strap or metal bracelet.始创于1996年的腕表系列,灵感来自Nautilus系列。Aquanaut系列表以综合的表壳形状、旋入式表冠,精雕细琢的黑色纹理表盘为特色。该系列腕表分为大、中、小三种尺寸,并有金和不锈钢两种材质,表带则有“Tropical”合成带和金属链。

Arabic - 阿拉伯数字

Usual way of showing the numerals. Arabic numerals: 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.0. As opposed to Roman numerals: I, II,III...显示数字的常用方式,阿拉伯数字有1、2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、0,分别对应罗马数字I、II、III……

Arm - 臂杆

Elongated part linking certain parts of a mechanism within a movement (such as the arm of a wheel, for example). 连接机芯某些装置的狭长部件(如齿轮的臂杆等)。

Art Deco - 装饰艺术

An artistic movement stemming from the Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris in 1925, which asserts a taste for straight lines and the geometrical interpretation of nature's forms.一项源自1925年巴黎装饰艺术博览会(Decorative Arts Exhibition)的艺术运动,主张以直线与几何形状表达自然之美。

Attachment - 表耳、凸耳

See Horns .参见“Horns - 表耳”的解释。

Back - 底盖

The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sapphire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged dust cover type.

Screw-down back : the back and the case middle are respectively fitted with a screw thread and thus screwed to each other.

Snap-on back : the back is held on to the case middle by pressure. Screw-on back the back is held on to the case middle by four screws.

Hinged dust cover : the sapphire crystal is held on to the case middle by pressure, and the dust cover is hinged to the case middle, enabling one to reveal the movement.

On Patek Philippe watches, the back may also be integrated with the case middle. On those kind of models, the watch is equipped with a movement with a \stem\表壳下半部分,固定在表壳中心下面。 无论底盖是金属材质或是可展示机芯的蓝宝石水晶,均可采用旋入式、揿扣式螺丝固定或铰接式防尘表盖的结合方式。 旋入式底盖:底盖和表壳中心通过螺纹接合,因此可以相互旋紧。 揿扣式底盖:通过压力将底盖固定到表壳中心。 螺丝底盖:通过四个螺钉将底盖固定到表壳中心。

铰链式防尘盖:通过压力将蓝宝石水晶底盖固定到表壳中心,然后将防尘表盖铰接到表壳中心,可以打开来观察机芯。

百达翡丽钟表的底盖亦可以与表壳中心融为一起。 这类钟表的机芯都配有“拼合柄轴”。

Baguette - 方钻、长矩形宝石

A gemstone cut.一种宝石车工。

Balance and spring assembly - 摆轮和游丝装置

The regulating organ of a mechanical movement. The balance and spring assembly, composed of a balance and a balance-spring, oscillates under the impetus of the escapement. In Patek Philippe watches, balance and spring assemblies are

generally of the Gynomax type.机械机芯的调校机构。摆轮游丝装置由摆轮和游丝构成,在擒纵机构的推动下摆动。百达翡丽钟表的摆轮游丝装置通常为Gyromax类型。

Balance roller - 摆轮轴

Disc-shaped escapement component. The balance roller receives the impulses from the pallets via its impulse-pin.盘状擒纵部件。摆轮滚轴通过冲击销来接收擒纵叉的冲击。

Balance-cock - 摆轮夹板

Synonymous with a balance-bridge. The balance-cock has a special shape, from which it gets its name, which reveals the balance.同摆轮桥板。摆轮夹板的形状特殊,由其英文名称可知,那是与摆轮有关的部分。

Balance-spring - 摆轮游丝、游丝

Small spring coiled into a spiral, an integral part of the balance and spring assembly.卷成盘状的小弹簧,是摆轮游丝装置的组成部分。

Ball-bearing mechanism - 滚珠轴承机件

Mechanical device enabling two parts to roll over each other instead of sliding.可使两个部件互相滚动而非互相滑动的机械装置。

Barrel - 发条鼓、发条匣

The part of a mechanical movement that enables the accumulation of energy. The barrel is composed of a wheel and drum (cylindrical case) with a cover. It houses the mainspring which coils around the barrel arbor under the impetus of the ratchet wheel.机械机芯的部件之一,可以积累动力。发条鼓由齿轮和鼓形带盖的圆筒(条鼓轮)构成。发条鼓内装着主发条,在大钢轮的推动力下缠绕在条轴上。

Barrel arbor - 条轴

The stem around which the mainspring coils.主发条缠绕的轴心。

Barrel drum - 条鼓轮

The lateral wall of the barrel, fitted with a hook to receive the mainspring. 发条鼓的侧壁,装有一个弯钩以固定主发条。

Base plate - 底板

Central plate of the movement, made in brass or nickel silver, on which the movement components are assembled. The upper side of the base plate is the side facing the case back which receives the movement organs. The under side of the base plate is the side facing the dial.机芯的中央板,通常为黄铜或镍银制成,机芯组件在此底板上组装。底板的上面对着表壳底盖,用于安装机芯机件,而底板的下面则对着表盘。

Baton - 巴顿式指针

Refers to hour markers or hands featuring the elongated shape of a baton.指条形时间刻度或指针。

Bauhaus - 包豪斯

A German school of architecture and applied arts, renowned for having initiated the artistic movement which holds that function determines form. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius in Weimar.德国建筑与应用艺术学院,以发动艺术运动而闻名。他们的观点是功能决定形式。包豪斯学院于1919年由格罗皮乌斯在德国魏玛创建。

Benzine - 苯精、轻质汽油

A hydrocarbon with solvent properties.具有溶解特性的碳氢化合物。

Bezel - 表框

Upper part of the case which holds the glass. It is fixed above the case middle.表壳上半部分,用于固定表镜。安装在表壳中心之上。

Bienfacture - 优质

A Swiss word with French roots (basically meaning \the good quality of a piece of work or an object.来源于法语的瑞士语单词(大意为“做得很好”),指一件高质量的作品或物品。

Binocular magnifying glass - 双筒放大镜

Instrument de grossissement optique qui comporte deux oculaires ou lentilles et permet de regarder avec les deux yeux en même temps.一个有双目镜的光学放大镜,使人可以同时用双眼观察。

Blue - 蓝油

A protective varnish used to coat all parts of the case and metal bracelet after polishing.保护性清漆,用于涂敷所有磨光后的表壳部件和金属表链。

Bracket - 托架

A kind of support or rest.一种支撑物或支架。

Brass - 黄铜

Alloy of copper and zinc. 铜锌合金。

Breguet - 宝玑

Abraham-Louis Breguet: Swiss watchmaker established in Paris (1747-1823), whose inventions include the tourbillon escapement.

Breguet numerals: numerals designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain dials.

Breguet hands: hollowed-tip hands designed by A.-Louis Breguet, adopted by Patek Philippe on certain watch models.

Bridge - 桥板

Movement part fixed to the base plate, in which the pivot of mobile parts turn. Generally speaking, bridges are named after the mobile parts they carry. Among the easiest to recognise is the balance-cock.固定在底板上的机芯部件,移动部件的枢轴在其中转动。 一般而言,桥板根据它所承载的移动部件来命名,其中最容易识别的桥板就是摆轮夹板。

Brilliant - 多面型

The most widely used cut for diamonds. It comprises 57 facets, meaning 1 table surrounded with 32 facets for the crown and 24 for the culet.钻石最常见的车工,共有 57 个琢面,即冠部的一个台面有32个琢面围绕,钻底则有24个琢面。

Burin - 雕刻刀、錾刀

Engraver's chisel.雕刻师的工具。

Byzantine - 拜占庭风格

Style of chain bracelet, made from gold threads. This type of bracelet is found on the Golden Ellipse 4931/2 watch.由金线制成的表链样式。Golden Ellipse 编号 4931/2腕表就采用这种表链。 C - 日历

Abbreviation for “calendar” = simple date = simple calendar in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“calendar - 日历”的缩写 = 简单日期 = 简单日历。

Cabled - 缆线式指针

Refers to a hand shaped like a cable.形状如缆线的指针。

Calatrava - Calatrava系列

An emblematic and quintessentially classic Patek Philippe collection since 1932. The lines of this timeless watch with a round case for men and ladies, are directly inspired by the Bauhaus artistic movement. Featuring a bezel that may be flat, round, gem-set or adorned with a hobnail pattern, the watch itself may be ultra-thin or fitted with a cover protecting the sapphire case back.百达翡丽自1932 年一直沿用的经典系列表。这一经久不衰的男/女手表系列均有圆形表壳,设计灵感直接来自包豪斯艺术运动。表框既可为扁平、圆形、镶有宝石,也可饰以平头钉图案,表型即可为超薄型,又可配有表盖以保护蓝宝石底盖。

Calendar - 日历

A complication that provides the various indications of the conventional calendar such as the date, the date, the week, the month and the year. Patek Philippe watches include:

Simple calendars: they give the date through an aperture or by means of a hand, indicating the number of the day from 1 to 31 within the month. They must be manually adjusted at the end of 30-day months and at the end of February. Annual calendar: a complete calendar (day, date and month), patented in 1996, which requires a single manual adjustment each year, at the end of February.

Perpetual calendars, which take account of monthly variations, including those of leap years, until the year 2100 (the next century year not divisible by 400). The secular perpetual calendar, which takes account of all the variables in our calendar, including that of century years not divisible by 400. This is the most sophisticated calendar in existence. It powers certain pocket watches such as the Calibre 89.

复杂功能之一,提供各种传统日历显示,如日期、星期、月、年等。 百达翡丽表的日历分为:

简单日历: 透过视窗或借助指针显示每月1 至 31 号的日期数字。在小月(只有30天)和二月结束时,必须手动调节日期。

年历: 1996年获得专利的完整日历(星期、日期和月份)显示技术,每年只需在二月结束时手动调节一次。

万年历:考虑到月份的变化(包括闰年的月份),可显示至 2100 年(不能被 400 整除的下一个世纪年)。

长久万年历:考虑到日历中的所有变化,包括不能被 400 整除的世纪年份。这是现有最复杂的日历技术,增大某些怀表(如Calibre 89)的功能。

Cam - 凸轮

A disc with a special profile on which a sprung lever rests.轮廓特殊的盘,支撑弹性扳手。

Cannon-pinion - 卡农小齿轮

In a movement, the pinion that controls the motion-work (the gear train that drives the hour, minute and seconds hands).在机芯中控制运动机件(驱动时针、分针和秒针的齿轮系)的小齿轮。

Carat - K(黄金)、克拉(宝石)

A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold.金制品的黄金纯度单位。纯金为24K。手表和珠宝工艺品使用18K或750金,即含金量为18/24或75%的合金。宝石的重量单位。1克拉等于0.2克。

Case - 表壳

The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back.表壳通常由三部分构成: 即表壳中心、表框和底盖。

Case middle - 表壳中心

The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement.表壳的中心部分,位于表框和底盖之间。用于容纳机芯。

Casing-ring - 表壳衬圈

Ring surrounding the movement and holding it inside the case.环绕机芯并将机芯固定在表壳内的衬圈。

Cathedral - 教堂音簧

See \参见“gong - 音簧”的解释。

Celestial canopy - 天文图

Complication that provides a representation of the sky, as it may be observed at night. Also known as sky chart, it enables one to follow the positions of the stars and that of the moon and to visualise the various phases.显示天相的复杂功能,也称为天文星图。人们可以跟踪星星和月亮的位置,并目测各种月相。

CH - 计时腕表

Abbreviation for Chronograph in the Patek Philippe typology.百达翡丽表中“ Chronograph - 计时腕表”的缩写。

Chain bracelet - 链条状表链

A bracelet for which the links are produced one by one from a gold wire.通过金线一个接一个连接起来的表链。

Chamfering - 倒角

Cutting and polishing an edge between the surface and the flank of certain movement parts, for aesthetic purposes. Chamfering underscores the shape of a

part and, once the components are assembled, the light plays over them in an extremely attractive way.Chamfering is a term used in watchmaking, as well as in marquetry-work and cabinet-making.出于美观,对某些机芯部件的表面与侧面之间的棱边进行切削和抛光。倒角强调部件的形状,组件装配起来后,部件将反射出迷人的光芒。倒角一词用于制表业以及镶嵌细工和家具木工。

Champlevé - 雕刻珐琅、内填珐琅

Hand engraving technique. Champlevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel.一种手工雕刻工艺。使用扁平的雕刻刀挖空金属,形成小空腔以填充珐琅。

Chenier (or knuckle) - 铰链(或关节)

Small tube into which one inserts a pin to form a hinge.小管件,内部可插入销针,从而形成折叶。

CHR - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时

Abbreviation of “Split seconds chronograph” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Split seconds chronograph - 追针计时、双秒针分段计时”的缩写。

Chronograph - 计时腕表

Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. A classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totaliser. Some have additional counters. Be careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer!钟表的复杂功能之一,用于测量某一事件的持续时间。标准的计时腕表由计时或围绕表盘旋转的秒针以及另一支指针组成,用以累加计数器或加法器上的分钟数。有些计时腕表带有额外的计数器。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。

Chronometer - 精密计时器

A watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institue).Be careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph!高精度获得官方机构认证的钟表。在瑞士,由COSC(瑞士官方天文表测试组织)逐一授予等级证明书。注意不要将计时腕表与精密计时器混淆。

Circular graining - 旋转式打圈图案

Decorating the surface of bridges and plates with interlacing circular motifs (like tiles on a roof). Circular graining is performed using a round abrasive polisher.用交叉环状图纹(如同屋顶上的瓦片)装饰桥板和主机板的表面。旋转式打圈图案采用圆形研磨抛光机进行。

Circular satin finish - 旋转式打圈磨光效果

Forming fine circular lines on the surface of certain brass or nickel silver parts, for aesthetic purposes. A circular satin finish is achieved using a hand lathe or e mery paper.出于美观,在某些铜或镍银部件表面塑造精细的环线。 旋转式打圈磨光效果采用手摇车窗或砂纸进行。

CITES - CITES公约

Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. This agreement between nations is intended to ensure that international trade in

specimens of wild plants and animals does not threaten the survival of the species to which they belong. Patek Philippe watch straps are made from the leather of farmed animals subject to the CITES.即《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》。此项国际公约旨在确保国际野生动植物样本贸易不会对这些野生动植物所属物种的生存造成威胁。受CITES公约的规限,百达翡丽表的表带均采用饲养动物的皮革制作。

CL - 天文图

Abbreviation for Celestial canopy (or sky chart) in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Celestial canopy (or sky chart) - 天文图(或天文星图)”的缩写。

Cloisonné - 景泰蓝

See “Enamel”.参见“Enamel - 珐琅”的解释。

Clous de Paris - 巴黎钉纹图案

See \参见“Hobnail pattern - 平头钉图案”的解释。

CNC - 电脑数值控制

Acronym for Computerised Numerical Control.是“Computerised Numerical Control - 电脑数值控制”的缩写。

Column-wheel - 导柱轮

Central element of the split seconds chronograph mechanism which gives the various parts (operating-lever hook, hammer, coupling lever and brake) their appropriate positions.追针计时机件的主要元件,使不同部件(操作杆钩、锤、连动杆和制动器)处于各自适当的位置。

Comet's tail - 彗尾

Refers to a flaw on exterior parts: material slightly hollowed around a tiny burr.指外部组件的瑕疵:小毛边周围的轻微凹陷材料。

Consecutive - 连续

Relating to a sequence, a well ordered succession (as opposed to simultaneous).与序列有关,按顺序的连续性(与“同时”相对)。

Corrector - 校正器

Button integrated within the case middle, which is pressed using the setting stylus to adjust certain specific functions.结合在表壳中心的按钮。使用拨针按该按钮,可以调节若干特殊功能。

COSC - COSC瑞士官方时计测定局

Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute瑞士官方时计测定局(Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)的缩写。

Counter - 计数器

In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second.在经典的计时腕表中,以分钟表示时间流逝的小表盘。此外,还有表示小时或几分之一秒的计数器。

Crown - 表冠

A button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. See: Winding crown.通常带有槽沟的按钮,用拇指与食指将其拉到不同位置,并向不同方向并旋转,一般用于设定时间或调校日期。机械表上的表冠(或上弦表冠)还可用于给机芯上弦。参见“上弦表冠” 。

Cut - 车工

Gemstone cut: an essential element in highlighting the stones. The proportions chosen determine three physical phenomena: internal reflection, diffraction or dispersion, and scintillation of fire. Professionals have established a scale for evaluation the quality of cuts. Patek Philippe uses only the best, referred to as \good\宝石车工:突出宝石光华的重要工艺。所选择的比例决定三种物理

现象——内部反射、衍射或散射以闪烁或光彩。专业人士已设立评估车工质量的等级。百达翡丽只会采用最好的——被评为“优良”和“杰出”的车工。

Cutting the teeth - 切割齿轮

Achieving a shape by cutting out on a Computerised Numerical Control machine or by stamping/pressing.这项操作须采用铣刀完成。铣刀可进行两项操作:旋转操作,切割齿轮和小齿轮;以及纵向操作(沿移动部件的中轴方向)。 机芯

Originally synonymous with size or dimensions. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. Patek Philippe has 15 base calibres. They are used either as they are or to serve as a base for additional developments or functions. There are thus 38 different calibres for wristwatches and 6 for pocket watches in regular production within the Manufacture.原义是大小或尺寸,后来被制表师引申为机芯。百达翡丽有17种基础机芯,它们既可以作为一般机芯使用,也可以作为“基础”机芯,在其基础上增添新技术或新功能。因此,在制造商的常规生产中,腕表有38种机芯,而怀表有6种机芯。

Date of Easter - 复活节日期

Complication that displays the date of Easter according to this rule: the first Sunday after the full moon which follows the spring equinox. The patented mechanism is housed within the Calibre 89 watch.根据以下规则显示复活节日期的复杂功能:春分后满月之后的第一个星期日。Calibre 89时计内装有这项专利机件。

Dauphine - 匕首形指针

Refers to hands with an elongated triangular shape.指长三角形指针。

Dial - 表盘

Plate with a metal base, visible through a glass, which carries certain indications such as the hours, minutes and seconds. On Patek Philippe watches, dials are generally in brass. The exceptions are those that are gold coloured, sun burst blue and models paved with precious stones, which are made from solid gold plates. Particular care is devoted to their finish. They may be galvanised, embossed,

guilloché, painted, metallic, opaline-white, gem-set or genuine enamel.有金属底座的板、透过表镜可见的板面,带有小时、分钟和秒钟的时间刻度。百达翡丽的表盘一般以黄铜制成,例外的有金色、放射状蓝色表盘以及镶有宝石的表盘,全由金制成。表盘的精饰花费大量心思,可能经过电镀、带有压花、带有交错格状饰纹、上过漆、带金属色调、呈乳光色、嵌有宝石或是涂上珐琅等。

Diamond - 钻石

Die - 冲模、硬模、模具

Steel plate representing the hollowed reproduction of a part to be cut out or stamped. The material placed on the die takes the shape by being struck with a punch.一种中空的钢板,用于冲切或冲压的部件。将材料放入冲模中,用冲压机压制成所需的形状。

Digital - 数字显示

In watchmaking, refers to display by means of numbers with no hands.就制表业而言,指使用数字而非指针的方式来显示时间。

Disc - 盘

Flat, thin disc carrying the indications which are successively displayed through an aperture as the disc rotates under the dial.带有标记的平薄圆片,当盘在表盘下面转动时,可以通过视窗连续显示上面的标记。

Display - 显示(时间)

Stage no.6 in the working of any watch: in either a mechanical watch or a quartz watch, the display is shown by hands or through apertures, driven by a gear train. 钟表运作的第6阶段:无论是机械表还是石英表,是依靠指针显示还是视窗显示,均由齿轮系驱动。

Divine proportion - 神圣比例

A mathematical ratio of homogenous size symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes to (1/1.6181). Also known as \

design of the Golden Ellipse.一个均衡尺寸的精确比例,可以使外观看起来达到完美的平衡(1/1.6181)。也被称作“黄金分割率”,它是Golden Ellipse系列设计的基础。

Drilling - 钻孔

Penetrating, passing through. For exemple, the drilling of pivot-holes.穿透、穿过。

Drilling for stone setting - 为镶嵌宝石钻孔

Preparation for gem-setting by forming the holes that will accommodate the stones. This operation is a machining operation.为宝石镶嵌预打的小孔,可以容纳宝石。这是一道机器加工工序。

Dual time zone - 两地时区

See “Time zones”. 参见“Time zones - 时区”的解释。 E - 电子

Abbreviation of “Electronic” in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“Electronic - 电子”的缩写。

Easter - 复活节

See \参见“ Date of Easter - 复活节日期”的解释。

Electrolysis - 电解、电解作用

Chemical decomposition achieved by the action of an electric current. Certain metals are electrolysed in order to apply them on others in fine layers.通过电流的作用所产生的化学分解。为了能覆盖在其它金属薄层上,某些金属需要进行电解。

Embossing - 压纹、压花

Stamping a motif in metal with imprints embossed using a press.使用冲压机的凸出印刻在金属上冲压出图案。

Emerald - 翡翠、纯绿柱石;翡翠式切割、长方形

Green coloured gemstone, a variety of beryl. Most widely used gemstone cut for emeralds.绿色宝石,一种绿柱石。切割翡翠的最常用车工。

Emery paper - 砂纸、金刚砂纸

Abrasive mixture coated on paper. Emery paper is used in particular for polishing, smoothing down and creating a circular satin finish.涂在纸上的研磨混合剂。砂纸多用于抛光、打磨和制造旋转式打圈磨光效果。

Enamel - 珐琅

Translucent substance that takes on various colours by adding metallic oxides. When fired in the furnace, it adheres to metal and acquires the consistency of glass. It may be applied in a single colour on certain dials. Figurative painting is also used to create decorative motifs. On Patek Philippe watches, these decorative motifs are generally created using two techniques:

Miniature enamel painting: the reproduction of paintings in miniature, generally on the cases of pocket watches. Small touches and successive layers are applied to a white enamel base and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C. A layer of transparent enamel is then applied to perfect this work. This finish is called \ Cloisonné enamel: this technique, generally used for table clocks, consists of creating cavities marked out by gold wires, in which the enamels are applied in layers and successively fired in a furnace at 850°C.

一种半透明的物质,可加入不同的金属氧化物而呈现不同的颜色。经过在熔炉中燃烧,可以粘贴在金属上,具有玻璃的一致性。在某些表盘上可能只使用单一的颜色,具象绘画还可作为装饰图案。在百达翡丽钟表中,通常采用两种手法来制作此类装饰图案:

搪瓷精绘:制作微型绘画,一般用于怀表表壳。在白色珐琅底座上涂上少量多层珐琅,并用850°C的炉火连续烘烤。然后,涂上一层透明的珐琅润色。这种透明的物质称为“透明珐琅”。

景泰蓝、嵌丝珐琅:这一工艺通常用于台式钟表。用金丝勾勒出凹穴,然后用一层一层的珐琅填充,并用850°C的炉火连续烘烤。

Energy distribution - 动力发散

In a mechanical watch, the energy is distributed progressively by a step-by-step escapement, consisting of pallets and an escape wheel with a special profile. In a quartz watch, the energy is distributed by a stepping motor.

在机械表中,动力由步进式擒纵机构(由擒纵叉和一个形状特殊的擒纵轮)逐步发散。 在石英表中,动力经步进马达发散。

Energy production - 动力产生

Stage no. 1 in the working of any watch:

In a mechanical watch, this implies manual or automatic winding. In a quartz watch, energy is produced by a battery. 钟表运作的第1阶段:

在机械表中,是用手动或自动上弦。 在石英表中,动力由电池产生。

Energy transmission and division of time - 动力传递及时间分割

Stage no. 3 in the working of any watch: in both mechanical and quartz watches, the energy is transmitted by a gear train which simultaneously divides up time. In the former case, it is powered by the mainspring; and in the second, by a stepping motor. 钟表运作的第3阶段:在机械表和石英表中,齿轮系传递动力的同时分割时间。机械表由主发条驱动,而石英表由步进马达驱动。

Engraving - 雕刻

Decorative technique consisting of hollowing out the matter to create various motifs, on various metal parts of the watch exterior or the movement. Hand engraving: it requires the use by the master engraver, of burins for fine furrows and gravers for broad furrows.

Mechanical engraving: engraving on a computerised numerical control machine to indicate the series numbers and logos on the bridges, plates and case backs. 一种装饰技巧,在钟表外部各金属部件或机芯上挖出物料以创作各种图案。 手工雕刻:要求主雕刻师用錾刀刻出细条纹,并用雕刻刀刻出粗条纹。

机械雕刻:在电脑数值控制机床上进行雕刻,在桥板、主机板和表壳底盖上标示序列号和标识。

EQ - 天文时差

Abbreviation of \在百达翡丽而言是“Equation of time - 天文时差”的缩写。

Equation of time - 天文时差

Complication which indicates the difference between conventional time (mean time) and the time determined by the position of the sun (real time). This difference ranges between - 16 and + 14 minutes, depending on the day of the year.显示常规时间(平均时间)与太阳位置决定的时间(实际时间)之间差异的一项复杂功能。差异范围介乎-16至+14分钟之间,取决于具体某一天。

Equinox - 昼夜平分点、二分点

The date when the duration of the day is equal to that of the night. There are two equinoxes per year which correspond to the start of spring and that of autumn.白昼与黑夜等长的日子。一年有两个昼夜平分点,分别标志着春季和秋季的开始。

Escapement - 擒纵机构、擒纵机、摆轮、司行轮

The organ of a mechanical movement that enables distribution of energy step by step (and not all at once). The escapement, composed of a wheel with a special shape (curved teeth) and pallets, maintains the oscillations of the regulating organ, the balance and spring assembly.机械机芯的机件,帮助动力逐步发散(而非一次全部发

散)。擒纵机构由一个形状特别(曲齿)的齿轮和擒纵叉组成,用于维持调校机构、摆轮和游丝装置的振动。

Etoquiaux - 凸边

Banking of a lever escapement when it is cut out of the plate and is not in the form of pins (solid banking). This term is specific to Geneva watchmaking.由机板上切割出瓦式擒纵器时造成的凸边,但与插销不同(实心凸边)。这是日内瓦制表上的专业用语。

Exterior - 外部组件

Set of external parts of a watch: case, dial, hands, glass, crown, strap/bracelet, etc. (to the exclusion of movement components).钟表的整套外部组件:表壳、表盘、指针、表镜、表冠/表链等(不包括机芯零件)。

Faceted - 多琢面

Having facets, such as on gemstones.具有多个琢面,比如宝石的多个琢面。

Fancy diamond - 彩色钻石

Coloured diamond.有颜色的钻石。

Fine working - 表壳精加工、装壳

Fine working the case: hand-finishing operations comprising trimming, soldering the lugs, creating (where necessary) hinges for the cover and preparing for polishing. 对表壳进行精加工:手工操作,包括修整、焊接表耳、为表盖制造(如必要)铰链以及为抛光做准备。

Finishing - 最后加工

Refers to the work of a company that buys watch components from outside and only handles assembly, adjustment, fitting the hands and casing up. One must distinguish between a finishing workshop as opposed to a Munufacture.指加工企业的工作,这类企业从外部购买钟表组件,只是负责进行装配、调校、安装指针及装壳。注意最后加工作坊与制造商的区别。

Finishing operations - 精加工工序

At Patek Philippe, this term encompasses a set of finishing operations performed by hand on watch parts, in keeping with the Geneva tradition. Most of the finishing operations which contribute high value added, are mandatory to obtain the Geneva Seal.在百达翡丽,该词指遵照日内瓦传统,在钟表零件上以手工进行的一套精加工工序。大部份创造高附加价值的精加工工序都是取得“日内瓦优质”印记的必需步骤。

Flux - 透明珐琅

See \参见“珐琅”的解释。

Fold-over clasp - 折叠扣

A clasp that opens by folding over, without being detached from the two parts of the bracelet.不需与表链两段分离,只要拉开折位便可开启的扣子。

Fork - 叉、叉头、分叉

Tip of the pallets which alternately pushes the impulse-pin placed under the balance and spring assembly so as to maintain its oscillations.擒纵叉的末端,交替推动位于摆轮游丝装置下面的冲击销,以维持振幅。

Frequency - 频率

Number of oscillations per second. Frequency is expressed in Hertz (Hz). 1 hertz = 1 oscillation = 2 vibrations per second.The frequency of the balance and spring assembly of mechanical watches is no higher than 5 Hertz (5 oscillations/sec.).The frequency of quartz is 32,000 Hertz (32,000 oscillations/second).每秒钟摆动的次数。频率以赫兹(Hz)计量。1赫兹 = 每秒1次摆动 = 每秒2次振动。 机械表的摆轮游丝装置的频率不高于5赫兹(5次摆动/秒)。 石英频率为32,000 赫兹(32,000次摆动/秒)。

FUS - 时区

Abbreviation for time zone in the Patek Philippe typology.在百达翡丽而言是“time zone - 时区”的缩写。

Galvanised/Galvanic plating - 电镀

Technique for plating metal by electrolysis. For example, the bridges and plates are protected from oxidation by a fine layer of rhodium.通过电解作用镀敷金属的工艺方法。例如,通过电镀一层薄铑来防止桥板和主机板氧化。

Gearing - 传动装置、齿轮装置、齿轮传动

Gear train composed of wheels and toothed pinions.由齿轮和小齿轮组成的齿轮系。

Gear-train - 齿轮系、传动机构

Set of wheels driven in an interdependent movement. The gear-train generally called the going train is the one that transmits energy and divides up time. It comprises the hour wheel, the minute wheel and the seconds wheel.Variable sets of wheel result in reduction and in different speeds of rotation.在机芯内受驱动的一套齿轮,通常被称为运转轮系的齿轮系,用于传送动力和分割时间,由时针轮、分针轮和秒针轮组成。不同的齿轮组和可产生减速和变速的效果。

匀速齿轮系:维持旋转速度。

加速齿轮系:每个齿轮的转速较前者为快。 减速齿轮系:每个齿轮的转速较前者为慢。

Gemmologist - 宝石专家

Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, scientifically called \研究优质石和珍贵石头(学名称为“宝石”)的专家。

Gem-setter - 镶石工匠

Craftsman who sets fine stones or precious stones.镶嵌优质宝石或珍贵石头的工匠。

Gem-setting - 宝石镶嵌

Adorning with fine stones or precious stones. On watches, the stones are fitted into the recesses, which are small holes formed earlier during the machining process, and they are then immobilised by pushing back the material around them.用优质或

珍贵宝石作装饰。在钟表上,这些宝石被嵌入凹槽(先以机器加工工序形成的{要和谐})内,然后通过推压其周围的材料将其固定。

Geneva stripes - 日内瓦条纹

Famous wavelike decorative pattern created on the bridges and oscillating weights of Patek Philippe watches. The tool required is crafted from boxwood by the craftsman himself, coated in abrasive paste and then pressed manually in order to remove an extremely small amount of material.百达翡丽钟表的桥板和摆动锤上的著名波浪形装饰图案。所需工具由工匠采用黄杨木亲手制作,并涂上研磨膏,然后用手按压以去除极少量的材料。

Glass - 表镜

Thin transparent plate through which one reads off the time, and which protects the dial. A glass may also be fitted on the case back to reveal the movement. The glasses used for Patek Philippe watches are always in scratch-resistant sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sapphire crystals.薄而透明的板面,透过它可以读取时间,同时起到保护表盘的作用。表镜也可装在底盖上以显露机芯。百达翡丽钟表采用的表镜均为防刮蓝宝石材质,因此也可称为蓝宝石水晶。

Golden Ellipse - Golden Ellipse系列

Collection characterised by an elliptical case, inspired by the golden section. This \homogenous size corresponding to 1/1.6181 and symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes. Golden Ellipse watches were created in 1968 for men, and ladies' versions were subsequently introduced.该系列以其椭圆形表壳著称,设计的灵感来自黄金分割。这一“神圣比例”并非一种度量,而是一个符合1/1.6181比例的数学比率,象征着完美平衡的形态。Golden Ellipse系列男装表于1968年问世,随后推出女装表。

Gold-plating - 镀金

Coating with a thin film of gold.镀上一层薄薄的黄金。

Gondolo - Gondolo系列

Derived from the name of Gondolo & Labourio, the Brazilian company that was a client of Patek Philippe between 1902 and 1930.

The collection in tribute to the house of Gondolo & Lanbourio. Launched in 1993, these watches for men and ladies are rectangular, square or cushion shaped. Inspired by the Art Deco movement characterised by perspective and pure lines, they stem from a desire to reproduce shaped watches that Patek Philippe has designed in the past.

该系列名称源自百达翡丽1902年至1930年间的一位客户——巴西公司Gondolo & Labourio。

为向Gondolo & Labourio公司致敬,于1993 年推出该系列,男装表和女装表均有矩形、方形和垫形等形状。受以透视法和纯线条为特色的装饰艺术运动影响,该系列的造型和百达翡丽过去的设计如出一辙。

Gong - 音簧

Striking mechanism part:

Generally speaking, gongs are circular steel coils, fixed at one end and which progressively surround the minute repeater movement. When struck by hammers, they vibrate and produce sounds.

Those that wrap almost twice around the mechanism are called \This enhances both the quality and duration of their sound. 打钟机构部件:

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