《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

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《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

第一集 自然的馈赠

中国拥有众多的人口,也拥有世界上最丰富多元的自然景观。高原、山林、湖泊、海岸线,这种地理和气候的跨度,有助于物种的形成和保存,任何一个国家都没有这样多潜在的食物原材料。人们采集、捡拾、挖掘、捕捞,为的是得到这份自然的馈赠。穿越四季,我们即将看到美味背后人和自然的故事。

China has a large population, and the richest and most varied natural landscapes in the world——plateaus,forests, lakes and coastlines. These various geographical features and climate conditions have helped to form and preserve widely different species. No other country has so many potential food sources as China. By collecting, fetching, digging, hunting and fishing, people have acquired abundant gifts from nature. Traveling through the four seasons, we'll discover a story about nature and the people behind delicious Chinese foods.

自然的馈赠 (1) ---松茸传奇

云南香格里拉,被雪山环抱的原始森林,雨季里空气阴凉。在松树和栎树自然混交林中,想尽可能跟上单珍卓玛的脚步,不是一件容易的事。卓玛和妈妈正在寻找一种精灵般的食物,卓玛在松针下找到的是松茸,一种珍贵的食用菌,这种菌子只能在没有污染的高海拔山地中才能存活。卓玛说:“一般走一公里的路,才能找到一朵松茸。”这只松茸的伞盖已经打开,品质不好。“以前的产量是很多,价格很低,现在产量低了,但价格很高”卓玛对我们这样讲到。松茸属于野生菌中的贵族,在大城市的餐厅里,一份碳烤松茸价格能达到1600元。松茸的香味浓烈袭人,稍经炙烤,就会被热力逼出一种矿物质的酽香,这令远离自然的人将此物视若珍宝。

Shangri-La, Yunnan, in the ancient forests nestled by snowy mountains. The air is wet and cool in the rainy season. It's not easy to catch up with Danzhen Zhuoma in the forest of pines and oaks. Zhuoma and her mother are looking for an elf-like food. Zhuoma has found matsutake under the pine needles. It's a one matsutake every kilometre. Matsutake yield was once high, but the price was low. Its production has fallen this year while the price has surged.'' Matsutake is very expensive. At restaurants in the big cities, a dish of roast matsutake will cost 1600 yuan. Matsutake has an intense scent. After being lightly roasted吉迪村是香格里拉松茸产地的中心。凌晨三点,这里已经变成一座空村,所有有能力上山的人,都已经出门去寻找那种神奇的菌子。卓玛对记者这样说道:“如果不早出来的话,别人在我前面,我就什么都找不到,别人把全部松茸都拔走了。”穿过村庄,母女俩要步行走进20公里之外的原始森林,即使对于熟悉森林的村民,捡拾松茸也是一项凭运气的劳动,品质高的松茸都隐藏在土层之下。卓玛的妈妈找寻着两天前亲手掩藏过的菌坑,沙壤土层中果然又长出了新的松茸,可惜今年雨水不足,松茸太小。卓玛不安的说:“妈妈就是不会注意自己的身体,光顾着找松茸,我就是有一点担心,有一天她头晕倒在山上,毕竟她已经岁数大了。”

Jidi village sits in the center of the matsutake production area in Shangri-La. It’s already empty before 3 am. Villagers who are able to climb mountains are out-searching for the amazing mushroom. “If we are late, the others won’t give us a chance. We won’t find her mother will hike to the ancient forest 20 kilometres away. Even to the villagers familiar with the forest, to find a pit that she concealed two days ago. Under the earth, a new matsutake is growing but it is very small due to a lack of rain. “My mother cares more about looking for matsutake than her own health. I’m a little worried that one day she might faint while in the mountain. She is getting old.”

酥油煎松茸,在松茸产地更常见。用黑陶土锅溶化酥油,放上切好的松茸生片,油温使松茸表面的水分迅速消失,香气毕现。高端的食材往往只需要采用最朴素的烹饪方式。以前藏族人都不爱吃松茸,嫌它

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

的味儿怪。原来的松茸也就几毛钱一斤,可是这几年,松茸身价飞升,一个夏天上万元的收入,使牧民在雨季里变得异常辛苦。松茸收购恪守严格的等级制度,48个不同的级别,从第一手的产地就要严格区分。“这个菌子是一级菌,相当好的,相当大的”收购者拿着两只松茸骄傲的说着。松茸保鲜的极限是三天,商人们以最快的速度对松茸进行精致的加工。这样一只松茸,在产地的收购价是80元,6个小时之后,它就会以700元的价格出现在东京的超级市场中。

Yak-butter-fried matsutake is common in the matsutake production area. Melt yak butter in a black clay pan. Then add the slices of matsutake. The slices are dried rapidly in hot oil and the fragrance’s released. Such luxurious ingredients need only to be cooked very simply. Tibetans didn’t like matsutake before because its strange taste. Matsutake used to be very cheap but recent years its price has shot up. To earn 10,000 yuan in one summer, herdsmen have to work hard in the Matsutake prices are strictly based on grades. The matsutake products are divided into 48 grades before being sold. “This one can be rated as grade one. It’s quite good and big.” Matsutake mushroom can keep fresh for 3days at most so merchants processed it as delicately and as quickly as possible. A matsutake like this can be originally purchased for 80 yuan. And 6 hours later, it will appear at a supermarket in Tokyo priced at 700 yuan.

卓玛挤在人群中,上午捡来的松茸品质一般,她心里很着急。“我看到别人比我采得多的时候,我的心里还是挺慌的,心急!”卓玛这样说道。刚刚过去的一天,卓玛和妈妈走了11个小时的山路,但是换回的钱很少,错过雨季的这一个月,松茸就会消失的无影无踪,全家人期待明天的好运气。

Zhuoma is waiting with crowds. She is anxious because her matsutake is not so good. “Others raised many more matsutake than I did so I am quite uneasy and anxious.” Over the past day, Zhuoma and her mother walked for 11 hours in the mountains but earned very little. After the rainy season, all the matsutake will be gone. Family

云南只有两个季节,旱季和雨季。从每年的11月开始,干燥而温暖的风浩浩荡荡地吹上半年,等到5月底,雨水才抵达迪庆州的香格里拉。大雨让原始森林里的各种野生菌都迅速疯长出来,但是杂菌不能引起卓玛和妈妈的兴趣。大雨是自然给的礼物,在相同付出的时候,好的运气带给卓玛更多的收获。松茸出土后,卓玛立刻用地上的松针把菌坑掩盖好,只有这样菌丝才不被破坏。为了延续自然的馈赠,村民们遵守着山林的规矩。

松茸的味道虽然独特,但是流行在餐桌上不过30年! and warm winds rise on the land, blowing hard for the next six months. Not until the end of May will rain fall off shoot up after the heavy rain. But only matsutake is an interest to Zhuoma and her mother. Heavy rain is a gift from nature. Everyone works hard but brings Zhuoma a better harvest. After digging out the matsutake, Zhuoma conceals the pits with pine needles. Only in this way can the forest. Matsutake is unique in flavor. It became a popular delicacy just 30 years ago.

自然的馈赠(2)---笋的故事

在中国的传统食谱中,还有另外一种来自山林的极品美味。取最新鲜的冬笋切寸段,下重油加各种调味料,即成为江浙一带最常见的家常菜----油焖冬笋。

On the menu of traditional Chinese cuisine, there is another dainty food growing in mountains. The cubes of fresh winter bamboo shoots, after being cooked , the various spices, will be a widely popular dish in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces.

在中国,有很多人依靠竹林生活,他们也是了解竹笋的高手!“毛竹最好就是要干净,不要等桑木松木都种起来了就影响了毛竹的生长,竹笋就挖不到了”挖笋人老包对记者这样说道。老包是浙江人,他的毛竹林里,长出过遂昌最大的一个冬笋。冬笋藏在土层的下面,从竹林的表面上看什么也没有,老包只需要看一下竹捎的颜色,就能知道笋的准确位臵。在这一片了无生机的土层之下,正有冬笋萌发。冬笋时令性极

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

强又难以保存,一棵冬笋去掉笋衣之后,可食用的部分所剩无几。中国厨师爱它,也是因为笋的质地单纯,极易吸收搭配食物的滋味,尤其是与肥腻的肉类脂肪可以形成美妙的平衡。

In China, many people rely on bamboo forests. They are also bamboo shoot experts. “Mao bamboo needs to be planted . Otherwise they won’t grow well or produce bamboo shoots.” Bao is a Zhejiang native. The biggest ever bamboo shoot in Suichang was The winter bamboo shoot hides in the earth and it is hard to find on the surface. But Bao can easily locate the bamboo shoots by only observing the color of bamboo leaves. Under the lifeless earth, a bamboo shoot is silently growing. The winter bamboo shoot is seasonal and hard to preserve. After being peeled, it leaves little left to be cooked. Chinese chefs love it because it is a single grain. It’s able to easily absorb the flavor of In particular, it can 浙江的老包找笋,先找到4年生的竹子,顺着竹鞭挖,找到笋之后轻刨轻取,不伤根。笋取出来要盖好土,就地利用自然,可以保鲜两周以上。

Bao always looks for four-year-old bamboo plants before bamboo shoots. Digging along the subterranean stamen, picking the shoots gently are necessary to prevent the roots from being harmed. Covered with earth, the harvested shoots can be preserved for over two weeks in a natural way.

从中国东部的浙江,一路向西南1500公里,就走进柳州盛夏的竹林。阿亮是广西人,他的竹林里生长的是大头甜笋。阿亮对我们描述说:“6月中旬左右到9月中旬,这个时间是采笋的季节,有最细腻的最嫩的竹笋。”通常而言,竹笋破土而出见风则硬,如果不及时采挖就会苦涩变老。阿亮家的笋属于夏天生的鞭笋rhizome shoot,口感远不如冬笋鲜嫩,但这种笋正是用来制作柳州酸笋的原料。

1500 kilometers southwest of eastern Zhijiang, a lush summer falls on a bamboo forest in Liuzhou. Guangxi “The most tender bamboo shoot can be harvested between mid June and mid September.”Bamboo shoots were solidified shortly after breaking to the soil. They turn old and bitter if not dug out in time. Yih’s forest yields the rezoned shoot that grows in summer. It is not as tender as the winter bamboo shoots, but it is the main ingredient for making Liuzhou sour bamboo shoot.

“这是祖传的绝招来秘造这个酸笋,我是大长孙,他那个绝招全部遗传给我!”阿亮自豪的对我们说着。黄豆酸笋小黄鱼,地道的广西风味菜,将长不大的小黄鱼事先炸透与黄豆酸笋同炒,这是一道非常开胃的下饭菜。在柳州当地,有一种叫螺蛳粉的小吃中,酸笋是最重要的辅料。阿亮家的大头甜笋砍下来已经快两个小时了,这时候笋达到呼吸作用的高峰,4个小时后,这两筐大头甜笋都会软化腐烂。阿亮全家手下的速度都加快了。

“Sour bamboo shoot is made under the guardianship of ancestral recipe. I’m the oldest grandson, sRaise yellow croaker with soybean, sour bamboo shoot has an authentic Guangxi flavor. Deep fry tiny yellow croakers first. Then cook them with soy beans and the sour bamboo shoot in oil. It’s a great appetizer. The sour bamboo shoot is also an ingredient for cooking snail rice flower noodles. So local snake in Liuzhu. Yih’s sweet bamboo shoots have reached a respiration peak they will begin to soften and rot. Yih and his family will work faster.

阿亮每天睡觉前要查看自家的酸笋坛子,他透过光看一下酸笋的成色,儿子告诉他明天有人要来买酸笋,但是这些笋至少还要3天才能出缸,他打算推掉客人的订单。

Every day he will check the jars containing sour bamboo shoots before he goes to sleep. Under the lamp, he checks the processed shoots. His son says there will be customers tomorrow, but the shoots won’t be ready for another three days. He will have to turn away the customers.

老包正用冬笋制作一道家常笋汤,咸猪肉、冬笋各放一半,在柴锅中煸炒,加高汤慢炖。咸肉的腌味和冬笋的鲜味相互交融,在这道被称作腌笃鲜的江浙菜中,主角本来应该是春笋,但是老包却使用价格高出20倍的遂昌冬笋,因为在老包的眼里,这些不过是自家毛竹林里的一个小菜而已。

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

Bao is cooking soup with winter bamboo shoots. The salted pork and bamboo shoots with a half and half proportion will be fried before being simmered in soup stock. The two flavors melt together. Originally, the soup pickles tuk fresh was cooked with spring bamboo shoots. But Bao has instead used Suichang winter bamboo shoot. 再过一个节气,春笋即将取代冬笋,继续成就精彩的腌笃鲜。

Every lunar February, the spring bamboo shoot succeeds the winter shoot as the main ingredient for making the soup.

自然的馈赠(3)诺邓井盐

其实,除了新鲜食材,有时成就美食的调味料也同样来自于自然。在云南大理北部的诺邓山区,醒目的红色砂岩中间,散布着不少天然的盐井,这些盐成就了山里人特殊的美味。 area in northern Dali, the eye-catching red sandstones are the home to many nature salt wells. The salt is indispensable for making a delicacy in the mountain.

诺邓盐做的血肠腊制过程不长,一周后就可以享用。云南人老黄和他的儿子树江,正在小溪边搭建一个土灶。这个土灶,每年冬天的工作就是熬盐,水是卤水,熬盐的原料。这口盐井已经在诺邓村里存在了上千年。生产食盐,为的是制作诺邓当地独特的美味。

Process to make blood sausages won’t last long. One week is usually enough. Yunnan natives, Huang and his son, Shujiang, are building a cooking stove by a stream. They built such a stove every winter to cook salt. Brine is needed for the salt cooking process. The salt well has been here for over one thousand years. And the salt will help make a local speciality.

“太漂亮了!”老黄满意的说道。经验让老黄马上认出一条成熟的诺邓火腿。火腿3年前上好了盐,已经在这里彻底风干了。3年的时间,火腿上的脂肪已经氧化成了特殊的美味。火腿要用刀解开,每个部分都有不同的吃法,贴近中间骨头的肉是最好的,3年以上的诺邓火腿可以生吃。莴笋炒火腿,选肥瘦均匀的火腿和新鲜的莴笋同炒,放入大蒜调味,荤素搭配是诺邓当地的家常菜。

“It’s so nice!” Experienced Huang recognizes it is a mature Nuodeng ham. It was salted three years ago and has been air-dried completely. Over the course of three years, the fat in the ham oxidized and created a unique flavor. The ham will be cut into parts before cooking. Each part can be cooked differently. Meat to touch to the bones is the best. Hams over three years old can be eaten rare. Stir fried-ham with asparagus lettuces needs well-marbled ham meat and fresh asparagus lettuces. Garlic is added to season the dish. Local dishes are always cooked with both meat and vegetables.

中午气温升高,盐井边上的土层里,析出的盐分增多,吸引着附近的牲口。树江的盐已经熬了4个多小时,结晶渐渐形成。诺邓井盐中含钾,利于健康,而且口味清淡,是制作火腿最好的选择。过了模子的盐,重量被固定下来。这样精准的计量方式说明:盐曾经是诺邓最重要的商品。

As the temperature rises at midday, more salt exudes from the earth surrounding the well, attracting the animals nearby. Shujiang has been cooking now for four hours and the salt has gradually crystallized. The in the salt is good for health. And with a mild taste, the salt is perfect for making ham. The mold helps weigh a certain amount of salt. The precise weighing measure proves that salt used to be the most important commodity here.

云龙县的冬季市场,老黄和儿子树江赶到集市上挑选制作火腿的猪肉。高原上的猪不是一般的大路货,顶级的诺邓火腿可以长出完美的油花。制作火腿炒饭,热热的米饭混上肉丁,用手趁热团在一起,使得米香肉香混合起来,趁热吃味道最好。

Huang and his son came to a winter market in Yunnan County to select pork for ham-making. Pigs on the plateau are different. Top-rated Nuodeng hams contain a moderate amount of fat. Fried rice with ham is cooked by mixing rice evenly with diced ham and hot ham. It makes the fragrances of rice and the meat melt together. This

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

dish tastes best when hot.

每年冬至到大寒,是老黄父子制作火腿的最佳时间。诺邓在海拔1800米左右,位臵恰好在河谷中江水转弯的地方,这种温润的气候,最适合火腿的深度发酵。“腌制火腿时间很长,并不只是一天两天,它一个多月的腌,还吊!”老黄深有感触的说道。火腿的腌制在老屋的院子里进行。山区的气候总是变化无常,等到天晴气温低就是最佳的时机。树江已经做了十年的火腿,但是手艺远不如父亲。

Every year ham is made between the winter solstice and the great cold of the Chinese lunar calendar. At an elevation of 1800 meters, Nuodeng sits where a ferment the hams. “It takes much longer than one or two days to salt a ham. After being salted for a month, it will be hung up and air-dried. Huang and his son salt hams in their own yard. The climate on the mountain keeps changing. A cold sunny day is the best time to make hams. Shujiang has ten years of ham-making experience, but he is still less skilled than his father.

“对,就这么腌,都擦,实实的擦,多擦一些!”老黄在给儿子树江讲解着腌制要领。

“Yes! Do it like this! Salt it evenly. Press hard! Put on more salt!” The salt giving instruction ,compression is also needed.

“他教我怎么做之后,还是要得靠悟性,因为他这个手的按摩,还有挤血,还有撒盐,盐要上多少还是要得靠悟性。”树江在慢慢领悟父亲教给他的腌制方法。诺邓火腿的腌制过程很简单,自制的诺盐均匀地覆盖在火腿上,反复揉压。手工制盐的过程繁复,这让老黄对每一粒盐都珍惜有加。

“The process of rubbing, blood discharging, salt spreading and the amount of salt needed, all depends on my own judgement.” It’s simple to salt the hams. Just spread self今天的人已经很难体会食盐的珍贵,交通和技术的进步,已经使盐成为成本极低的商品,但我们仍然认为诺邓盐是自然赐给山里人的一个特殊礼物。海拔1800米的河谷渐渐温润起来,从现在起,上千条诺邓火腿开始长霉,这种霉菌即将伴随着火腿的深度发酵。

People today no longer take salt seriously. Advance transportation and technology have made salt common and cheap. But in our eyes, Nuodeng salt is still a gift bestowed by nature. The river valley becomes warm and wet and over 1000 hams begin to mildew. The mould pushes hams into a deep fermentation process.

藏匿在深山里的美味正在慢慢生成。

The dainty delicacy in the mountain is gradually maturing.

自然的馈赠(4)---藕香飘逸

十月,长江中游的两湖平原进入秋季,湖北省内临近长江的湖泊水位开始逐渐下降。这个自然的规律,使得人们有机会接近湖底的世界。

In October, autumn falls on the plain areasthe Yangtze begins to drop. The laws of nature provide people with an opportunity to reach the bottoms of the lakes.

圣武和茂荣是兄弟俩,每年湖水下降的时候,他们都会来到湖北的嘉鱼,开始迎接一项艰苦的工作。对兄弟两人来说,新的机遇和挑战就在眼前。圣武和茂荣要来采挖一种自然的美味,这种植物生长在湖水下面深深的淤泥中,要想挖到并不是容易的事。“这里还有一支长到边上来了!”茂荣边挖边和我们讲道。茂荣挖到的植物根茎就是莲藕,是一种湖泊中高产的蔬菜。 “我家里盖房子的钱,孩子的读书钱,全是我挖藕挣得,身体好,像这个活儿还可以多搞几年!”茂荣感慨的说着。“这东西要身体,一般身体素质差的,一锹土下去,没这个体力,搞不下来就不想搞了”圣武接着茂荣的话对我们这样说道。

Every year, brothers Shengwu and Maorong come to Jiayu for a hard job when the water level drops. New opportunities and challenges are waiting for them. The brothers are going to dig out a delicious vegetable. It grows deep in the silt and is difficult to dig out. This jam Maorong has dug out. “Here is another one. It’s more to this side. I built my house and provided for my kids to go to school with the money I am doing.” This jam that Maorong

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

has dug out is a lotus root, a high yield vegetable that grows in lakes.

“Excellent physical condition is necessary for the work. It requires a strong body. People who are not so strong are incapable of digging through the silt. So they have to give up.”

挖藕要有耐心和技巧,才能取出完整的一段藕。摸清楚整根藕的走势和长度,然后再逐段地清除淤泥。藕断了就破了卖相,灌进了淤泥就更卖不出价格,所以每一个挖藕人都要小心地把藕完整地挖出来。 away the silt around it bit by bit. If it is broken and contaminated with silt, the value will be ruined. So workers must be very careful to dig the roots out without breaking it.

藕是一种含淀粉丰富的蔬菜。湖北产藕,湖北人更会吃藕。制作藕夹,藕去皮,切成薄的连刀片,用筷子夹肉馅儿塞入藕内,使肉馅儿能够均匀分布,藕夹入面浆,挂上面糊,温油炸至金黄。

Lotus root is rich in starch. Hubei natives are good at cooking it. A fried lotus root sandwich is always cooked this way. You peel the skin, cut it into thin slices. Place the minced meat stuffing evenly in between the two

藕是一种包含了人工劳动的自然食材,因此附加在藕上的价值,要比其他蔬菜都高。要想得到藕,唯一的方式就是用人力来挖,无论多么大的藕田也没有任何机械化的采藕工具。采藕的季节,他们就从老家安徽无为赶到有藕的地方。每年茂荣和圣武要只身出门7个月,较高的人工报酬使得圣武和茂荣愿意从事这项艰苦的工作,因为他们懂得,环境越是恶劣,回报越是丰厚。去年春节前,莲藕的价格不错,这吸引了大批的职业挖藕人来到嘉鱼。

Lotus root is a kind of natural food that demands a lot of human labor. So it has more added value than any other vegetable. The only way to get lotus root is to harvest it by man power. No matter how large a lake is, lotus root can not be harvested by machine. When harvest season comes, workers leave their hometowns for the for seven months. It’s a comfortable salary that attracts them to do the job. They understand that the harder the job is, the more money they will earn. Before last spring festival, the price of lotus root shot up, attracting more workers to Jiayu.

“就是一个腰疼,一个胳膊疼,一个腿呀有点酸,还一个胃不好受,我家里老婆她也说了,她说你在外面要照顾好自己;我们肯定希望希望藕的价钱卖得高,就是为了生活,多挣几个钱!”挖藕人的言谈让我们体会到了劳动的艰辛。

“My waist hurts. One of my arms is aching. One of my legs is tingling. My stomach is also hurt. My wife has 挖藕的人喜欢天气寒冷,这不是因为天冷好挖藕,而是天气冷买藕吃藕汤的人就多一些,藕的价格就会涨。在湖北,藕最常见的做法就是煮汤。这是武汉及鄂中一带的家常菜---莲藕炖排骨。在湖北,几乎所有人家,在每月都要煨一两次排骨藕汤,选肉厚的猪胸骨切块儿放入砂锅,烧开后小火煨一小时,将新鲜的藕刮皮洗净,切块儿入汤,先猛火,滚开后,小火煨半小时即成。

The workers like cold weather not because the cold can make the work any easier, but because on cold days more people cook lotus roots soups that create a price hike. Hubei people usually use lotus root to cook the soup. In Wuhan and other parts in central Hubei, stew ribs in lotus root is a common dish. Nearly all local households cook this soup once or twice every month. Put hot rib cubes in an earthenware pot. Simmer them in a slow heat

“因为这是出自我们的手,我们在那个市场上看到藕,我们心里就有一种感觉,这个藕是我们挖出来的,这是不是出自我们的手,那肯定有这种感觉,有一种亲密感!”圣武和茂荣自豪的对我们讲着挖藕的成就感。

“It’s us that have dug them out. When we see lotus roots at markets, we get a special feeling. It’s us that dug them out, right? We certainly feel that way. We feel close to them.”

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

整整一湖的莲藕,还要采摘5个月的时间。在嘉鱼县的珍湖上,300个职业挖藕人每天从日出延续到日落。在中国遍布淡水湖的大省,这样的场面年年上演。

Five more months are still needed to finish the harvest in the lake. At the Zhen Lake, three hundred professional workers work from sunrise to sunset every day. In Hubei, abundant in fresh water lakes, the same scene takes place every single year.

自然的馈赠(5)--- 冰湖渔歌

几个月后,数千公里之外的吉林查干湖,另一批职业捕捞者等到了工作季节的开始。干燥的空气,极度的低温,使前郭尔罗斯大草原上的淡水湖早早封冻,但一场精彩的收获,正酝酿在冰湖之下。

Several months later, thousands of miles away, on a group of professional fishermen are starting their work season. Dry air and extreme cold have frozen the lakes on the Gorlos grass land.

北京的餐厅,后厨正在开始制作每天最叫座儿的招牌菜---鱼头泡饼。精彩的大鱼头,来自几百公里之外的东北。取一大锅,不用油煎,只用事先做好的高汤煮炖,鱼头在锅里大概炖25分钟,烙饼要刚刚烙好的为最佳,最后大火收汁儿。吃鱼头是中国人的专利,好的鱼头要比鲜鱼的价格高出很多。

At a restaurant in Beijing, chefs are making the most popular dish. The big fish head comes from the northeast, hundreds of kilometers away. Without being fried, the fish head will be stewed for 25 minutes in a big pot with soup stock. Chefs make the freshly cooked pancakes beside the dish. The dish will be ready after the broth is well absorbed. Fish head dish is a favorite speciality of Chinese people. High quality fish heads are more expensive than fresh fish.

凌晨4点,查干湖的渔民趁夜色出发,他们穿戴着棉袜子、毡嘎达(靴子)、狗皮帽子,夜晚赶路,向选定的下网地点出发。要知道现在脚下已经不是陆地,而是冰面。赶车的人最害怕遇上没有封冻的裂缝,人和马一旦踏上,落水甚至丢掉性命都是有可能的。往哪里走,谁也不敢乱说话,一场依靠经验的赌博要持续数个小时。 they are heading to the previously chosen fishing spot. It’s not land underneath them, but a frozen lake. The grooms are very afraid of unfrozen cracks. If stepped on, the men and their horses will fall into thewater and probably lose their lives. Which is the right direction? Nobody daresto say. This gamble will last for hours and it is only to be won by those with rich experience.

今天阳光明媚,冰下的含氧量提高,鱼群的密度会很大。长达两千米的渔网很快沉入水底,冰下的温度是零下4度,这样的低温中,鱼群会聚集不动,但是定位不准,坏运气也会像传染病蔓延好几天。渔工们各自干着活,没有人讲话,焦虑和紧张弥漫在冰面上,厚重的衣服使简单的动作变得异常迟缓。渔把头很在意今天自己的判断是否准确,因为这关系到他在众人中的威信和面子。 It’s a sunny day, oxygen in the water increases and the fish crowd together. A 2000-meter fishnet quickly sinks to the bottom. At such a low temperature, the fish keep still. But a failure in locating the fish may bring a bad luck streak that could last for days. The fishermen are working in silence. Anxiety and nervousness shroud the lake. The thick clothes make people move slowly evenwhen doing simple work. The chief fisherman cares most about his accuracy of judgement because it concerns his reputation and pride.

“我们这儿天天都是鱼!”石宝柱今年77岁,经验丰富,是当地很有名望的渔把头。

“15岁开始干,一直干到现在都77了,你说多少年,始终没离开这个鱼界,没离水没离鱼,不喝了,今儿就这些吧,一会儿还有事儿,是吧,还得上冰呀!”石宝柱边喝着酒边和我们聊着天儿。

“I have been engaged inthis since I was fifteen years old.” 77-year-old Shi Baozhu is experienced and actually rather famous in this area. “I’m 77 years old. How many years do youthink I have been doing this?” I have never

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

stopped this work or left the wateror the fish. That’s enough for today. I have work to do at the frozen lake.”

冬捕者正在将绞盘固定在冰面上,再把大绦缠在绞盘上,通过牲口的拉力拉动冰下长达两公里的捕鱼大网。惊人的一幕开始了,渔网在透明的冰面下缓缓地移动,能够看到冰下走网,意味着光照正好,冰层的厚度恰到好处,但是这能够预示着鱼群就在附近吗?

Fishermen are setting up a capstan on the ice. A rope has been wound around the capstan. Horses are driven to pull the 2000-meter long net underneath the ice. Thebreath-taking moment arrives. Under the icy surface, the fishnet moves slowly. Thescene indicates that the sunshine is moderate and the thickness of ice isproper. But can it promise that fish are nearby?

快过年了,按老习俗当地要有一次祭湖祭鱼的活动。游客的需求和商业的参与,让眼前的仪式变得更加隆重。石把头作为主要演员也要上台表演。眼前的场面和老人记忆里的祭祀有很大差别,但他还是虔诚地祈求湖里的神仙恩赐来年的丰收。

Spring festival is approaching. In tradition, there will be a sacrifice for the lake and fish. Tourism and commercial operations make the ceremony even more grand. Shi will play aleading role in the performance. Though the ritual has been changed a lot, Shi still prays piously to the lake god for a good harvest next year.

网在冰下走了8个小时,终于到了收网的时候。“来货啦!”渔工们激动的喊着。水底的世界被整个地打捞了起来,被上天厚爱的人群又一次获得了馈赠!令人感慨的一幕发生了,大鱼们肥美的身躯刺激着所有人的神经,但是没有人会注意到一个细节,拉上来的网中竟然没有一条小鱼,每条鱼的重量几乎都在两公斤以上。只有老把头知道,这正是查干湖渔民心口相传的严格规定,冬捕的渔网是6寸的网眼,这样稀疏的网眼只能网到5年以上的大鱼,这样未成年的小鱼就被人为地漏掉了。郭尔罗斯蒙古族有一句话叫做猎杀不绝,讲的就是这个道理。

Eight hourslater, it’s time to pull out the nets. “Coming up, fish!” The entire load of fish has been extracted. The lucky locals have received generous gifts from nature once again. The moment arouses people’s thoughts and feelings. Thefishermen are excited at the big fat fish. But no one notices that there are no tiny fish that weigh less than two kilograms in the nets. Only Shi knows. It’sa strict rule among the fishermen that has been passed on for generations. Each mesh of the fishnet is twenty centimeters in diameter. This specific design enables the net to only trap fish over five years old. The young fish are able to escape. As the Gorlos Mongo saying goes, “Always leave something for the next hunt.” It’s a sound principle.

“一年一次必须得搞的,这是古代传下来的那不能差,这不是年年有余吗,今儿咱们把鱼都带回去,今儿晚上咱们就吃鱼喝酒!”石宝柱心情愉悦的对我们讲道。

“You must do it every year. You must abide by the long lasting tradition. It represents a wish for an annual surplus. Let’stake all the fish hunted today!”

刚出水的大鱼正在石把头的家里准备迎接除夕,依照老传统,年夜饭还是一桌全鱼宴。隆重的晚宴中,鱼是绝对的主角儿,女婿做得一手好菜是家里的大厨。完成全鱼宴上的14道菜,穷尽了他的全部手艺,重头戏是垮炖杂鱼,一定要用上东北的大酱调味,先炖透胖头鱼,再依次放进几种杂鱼,混搭的感觉像极了东北人的率性和直截。家里的孩子陪着老人一起喝酒,辛苦的一年过去了。

The big fish just caught are to be cooked at Shi’s family for the dinner on the lunar New Yea’s Eve. Traditionally, it’s a rich feast of fish. It’s the main ingredient of all the dishes. Shi’s son-in-law cooks well and will serve the entire family. He exhausts his ability to complete all fourteen dishes on the fish menu. The main dish is stewed fishes seasoned with a special sauce from the northeast. First, stew the bighead carp thoroughly. Then, add in several other fishes one by one. Thecombination represents the straightforward character of the locals. Children accompany the elders for a drink after a tough and busy year.

“这个是生鱼、生鱼片,这个是银鱼,武昌鱼,这个是鱼肉段儿。”石把头给我们介绍着各种鱼的佳肴。 鱼鲜混杂的味道,弥漫在查干湖渔村的夜晚。

“Let’s do not think but enjoy fish and alcohol tonight! This is sashimi. This is white bait.Wuchang fish and

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

fish-made cubes.” The scents of various fish fill the night ofthe little fishing village.

自然的馈赠(6)--- 海洋恩赐

湖水的馈赠,固然养育了依水而居的人们。然而海洋,更是许多中国人赖以生存的水世界。

Gifts from the lakes have nourished the residentsnearby while the ocean is an even more important source of food that Chineserely on.

广西京族三岛上的渔民曾经用高跷捕鱼的方式,得到浅海的鱼虾。鱼群通常在西南季风来临的清晨和傍晚活动,这个高度借助一副高跷,再撑开渔网作为支点,可以有效地将近海的鱼虾一网打尽。站在海岸线上,总会有资源将尽的感慨,以前很发达的高跷捕鱼,现在逐渐成为民俗旅游项目。在京族的万尾渔村,这是最后5个会高跷捕鱼的人。对于海边的人来说,更深的诱惑还在深海之中。

On the Three Islands of Guangxi, inhabited by Jing ethnic groups, thefishermen used to fish on stilts. Fish usually swarm in the morning and eveningwhen the southwest monsoon dominates. By casting the fishnet while standing onstilts, the fishermen can efficiently catch fish in the shallow sea. Facing thesea, people could not help but sigh over the shrinking availability of natural resources. Today, the once prosperous fishing method can be seen only infolklore performances. These are the last five men capable of the stunts inWanwei, Jing ethnic village. To the seaside residents, the deep ocean is much more attractive.

中国拥有长达1.8万公里的海岸线,但是捕鱼的地方离开海岸越远,危险的系数就越高。走近妈祖庙祈福,意味着新的航行马上开始,海南人林红旗是远洋捕捞队的船长。冬天里,林船长的渔船已经准备好柴油、食物和淡水,即将从三亚的海港起航。船上的20个人,大部分都是青壮年。不断减少的鱼群让船长林红旗承担着一无所获的风险,但是船长知道,自然的馈赠时常不随人愿,机会还要靠自己去把握。

China has a coastline of 18,000 kilometers. The further thefishermen are away from land, the more dangerous the task. After praying at theMazu temple, the fishermen will set out. Hainan native, Lin Hongqi, is tocaptain the boat. It’s winter. Diesel, fresh water and food have been loaded onto Lin’s boat. It’s now ready to sail. Of the twenty crew members abroad, allare young or middle age. The decreasing number of fish made fishing much moredifferent. But Lin knows that nature won’t satisfy man all the time. Sometimesman has to take his chance.

傍晚,船长捉到一条狼鱼,简单切块后,可以看到狼鱼翠绿色的骨头,只要用清水一煮,味道就很鲜美,配上方便面,成就了一顿可口的晚餐,但是船长的晚餐吃得并不平静。灯光引来了鱼群,打捞了整整两个小时,拉起来的渔网空空的,只有一些水母。没有收获是意料之中的事情,但是压力都在船长身上。半个月之后再没有收获,林红旗必须对船员有个交代。出海的时候,船员会带上一些马鲛鱼作为食物。马鲛鱼用盐腌好,可以储备很久。腌制剩下的鱼头和鱼尾加上酸菜,可以做成美味的酸菜鱼汤。

Lin catches a wolfish at evening. We cansee its emerald green bones after it has been cut open. The fish is tastyenough after simply being boiled. Instant noodles and the fish make for apleasant supper, but Lin will not be having a relax supper. Fishes areattracted to light. After toiling for two hours, they’ve got nothing but a fewjellyfish. It comes as no surprise but the captain is under great pressure. Ifthere’s still fruitless half a month later, Lin will take the responsibility. Mackerelis the main food for the sailors out at sea. The salted fish can be preservedfor a long time. Fish heads and tails can be cooked with pickled cabbage into atasty soup.

南海是中国最大最深的海洋,这里有22个岛屿和7个沙洲。岛上的红螺直接用海水煮熟,味道鲜美无比。渔民们到西沙捕鱼,遇上恶劣的天气就要靠岸休整。远洋捕捞的成本很高,今年的捕捞季节,林红旗已经出过两次海,亏损了好几万,这次的航程已经过去了好几天,还是一无所获,他的压力越来越大。希望都寄托在林红旗身上,他是船长,鱼群的位臵全凭他的判断。

There are 22 islands and 7 shores in the South China Sea, the biggestand deepest sea of China. Red snails on the islands take perfect after being boiled with sea water. Fishermen fishing around the Xisha islands have to goashore in bad weather. Deep sea fishing costs a lot. Lin has gone out to sea twice this year, ultimately losing tens of thousands of yuan. They have gotnothing since departure. Lin is under great pressure. The crew places all their hopes on him. He is the captain and responsible for locating fish shoals.

《舌尖上的中国》第一季第一集 自然的馈赠 (双语-段段对照)Episode 1 gift of nature

从一无所获到一日千里,靠大海谋生的人们,又一次获得馈赠。但是,一年中能出海的机会只有半年,大家必须抓紧时间。渔民们独特的庆祝方式就是做一顿丰盛的海鱼午宴。香煎马鲛鱼,不用添加任何多余的调料,完全原汁原味,池子鱼要跟蒜一起红烧,炮弹鱼肉质细腻最适合做汤,加上酸笋一起煮。船上做菜保留了海鲜最原始的鲜味。林红旗载着一船鱼回到了陆地,但他知道这只是短暂的停留。

Travellinglong distances within one day, the people who dependent on the sea finallyreceive generous gifts from nature once again. But pelagic fishing only runssix months a year, there is no time to be lost. But the fishermen have a uniqueway to celebrate the harvest——a rich feast of fish. The decocted mackerel can retain its original flavor after being cooked alone. Chizi fish tastes good after being braised with garlic. Shell fish has the fine quality of making soup with sour bamboo shoots. The dishes all retain the original flavor of sea food. Lin returns with an entire boat of fish. But he knows that it will be a short stay.

人们未来将如何适应海洋环境,只能静观其变。

Only time can see how human beings will adapt to the changing ocean.

自然的馈赠(7)--- 丰收余韵

----为期两个月的松茸季节,卓玛和妈妈挣到了5000元,这个收入是对她们辛苦付出的回报。

. Zhuoma and her mother earned 5000 yuan in the matsutake harvest season. Their hard work paidoff.

----傍晚,圣武撑着船回到岸边,他要把今天采到的莲藕用苫布盖起来

In the evening, Shengwu pulls the boat to shore. He is going to cover today’s harvest with a tarp.

----新年的第一天,石把头独自上冰,春天50万斤鱼苗将会重新投放到湖里,老人仍然期待冰湖里的馈赠。

Shi comes to the ice-covered lake on the lunar NewYear’s Day. 250,000 kilos of baby fish will be put into the lake at spring. Heis looking forward to another great harvest.

当我们远离自然享受美食的时候,最应该感谢的是这些付出劳动和智慧的人们,而大自然则以她的慷慨和守信作为对人类的回报和奖赏!

When we enjoy delicacies, we should appreciate the people who make it happen through their hard work andtheir wisdom. Nature tends to be generous and forthcoming with her rewards for men.

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