中国速冻饺子加剧全球变暖

中国速冻饺子加剧全球变暖？

What Do Chinese Dumplings Have to Do With Global Warming?

?In Sichuan, we?re eaters,” said Chen Zemin, the world?s first and only

frozen-dumpling billionaire. “We have an expression that goes, ?Even if you have a very poor life, you still have your teeth to please.? ” He smiled and patted his not insubstantial belly. “I like to eat.”

“在四川，我们都是吃货，”陈泽民（音）说。他是世界上第一个，也是唯一一个靠速冻饺子成为亿万富翁的人。“我们有句话是这么说的，‘穷日子也要打牙祭’。”他笑着拍了拍自己不算大的肚子。“我喜欢吃。”

Chen, who is 72, never planned on being a dumpling mogul. Like almost everyone who came of age during the Cultural Revolution, he didn?t get to choose his profession. He was a “gadget guy” during his high-school years. “I liked building circuits and crystal radios and that sort of thing,” he told me. “I applied to university to study semiconductor electronics.” But the state

decided that Chen should become a surgeon, and so he dutifully completed his studies and amused himself in his free time by learning how to cook: He made Sichuan pickles, kung pao chicken and, of course, dumplings. Even after he became vice president of the Second People?s Hospital in Zhengzhou, a

provincial city about halfway between Shanghai and Beijing, Chen remained bored with his day job. “I didn?t have enough to keep me busy,” he said, blinking earnestly, hands steepled beneath his chin. “I would wander round inspecting the building, and I had meetings, but I felt as if I spent most of my time reading the newspaper and drinking tea.” He engaged in lots of Rube Goldberg-like tinkering: jury-rigging the hospital?s aging equipment, fixing his neighbors? radios and even building Zhengzhou?s first washing machine. And he cooked. For decades, his lunar New Year gifts of homemade glutinous rice balls were legendary among friends and neighbors.

陈泽民今年72岁，他从没想过会成为饺子大亨。和大多数在“文化大革命”中成年的人一样，他无法选择自己的职业。上中学的时候，他是个“喜欢自己动手的家伙”。“我喜欢做电路和晶体管收音机之类东西，”他告诉我。“我申请上大学去学半导体电子学。”但是国家决定陈泽民应当成为外科医生，于是他尽职地完成了学业，课余时间学习烹饪自娱自乐：他学会了做四川泡菜、宫保鸡丁，当然，也有饺子。甚至后来他当上了郑州第二人民医院的副院长后（郑州是一个省会城市，与上海和北京之间等距），还是对白天的工作感到厌倦。“也没什么事可做，”他热切地眨着眼睛，双手合十，顶着下巴。“我在楼里到处巡视、开会，但我的大部分时间好像都在看报纸，喝茶。”他做了很多鲁贝·戈德堡（Rube Goldberg，指迂回曲折的方法去完成一些其实是非常简单的工作——译注）式的修理工作：应急修好了医院老化的设备，帮邻居修理收音机，甚至还建造了郑州的第一台洗衣机。当然，他也烹饪。几十年来，他在春节期间总是亲手做汤圆送给别人，在亲朋好友和邻居当中很有名。

But as China began to open up to the West and Deng Xiaoping, Mao?s

reformist successor, declared that some people “will get rich first,” Chen, who not only was bored but had two sons? weddings to pay for, wanted to become one of those people. It wasn?t long before he started thinking about, as he put it, giving “my rice balls legs.” Chinese pot stickers and rice balls are

traditionally made in enormous batches, in order to justify the effort it takes to knead the dough, roll it out, mix the filling and wrap by hand a morsel that stays fresh for only one day. Because of his medical background, Chen had an idea for how to extend the life span of his spicy-pork won tons and

sweet-sesame-paste-filled balls. “As a surgeon, you have to preserve things like organs or blood in a cold environment,” Chen said. “A surgeon?s career cannot be separate from refrigeration. I already knew that cold was the best physical way to preserve.”

后来中国开始向西方开放，毛泽东主张改革的继任者邓小平宣布一部分人可以“先富起来”，陈不仅早已厌倦了工作，两个儿子的婚事也需要用钱，他也想成

为先富起来的一员。不久后，他就开始思考，用他自己的话说，是怎么“让我的汤圆长腿”。为了不让揉面、擀面、拌馅、手包的功夫白费，中国的锅贴和汤圆都是成批制作，但只能保鲜一天。凭着自己的医学背景，陈泽民想到了可以延长自己的火腿馄饨和甜芝麻馅汤圆保鲜期的办法。“外科医生得把器官和血浆之类东西冷藏起来，”他说，“外科医生的事业生涯和冷冻机是分不开的。我已经知道冷藏是最好的物理保鲜方式。”

Using mechanical parts harvested from the hospital junk pile, Chen built a two-stage freezer that chilled his glutinous rice balls one by one, quickly

enough that large ice crystals didn?t form inside the filling and ruin the texture. His first patent covered a production process for the balls themselves; a

second was for the packaging that would protect them from freezer burn. Soon enough, Chen realized that both innovations could be applied to pot stickers, too. And so in 1992, against the advice of his entire family, Chen, then 50, quit his hospital job, rented a small former print shop and started China?s first frozen-food business. He named his fledgling dumpling company Sanquan, which is short for the “Third Plenary Session of the 11th Central Committee of the Communist Party of China” — the 1978 gathering that marked the country?s first steps toward the open market.

陈泽民用医院垃圾中回收来的机械部件造出了一个双槽冷冻机，一个个地冷冻他的糯米汤圆，冷冻速度刚好让内部的馅不至于冻成冰晶，从而破坏口感。他申请的第一个专利包括制作汤圆的过程本身；第二个专利则是防止冷冻汤圆表面冻干变硬的包装。很快，陈就意识到两项创新也都可以应用在锅贴上。1992年，不顾全家人的意见，50岁的陈泽民辞去了医院的工作，租来一个小印刷厂，开创了中国第一家速冻食品企业。他给自己蹒跚起步的饺子公司起名为“三全”，是“中国共产党第十一届中央大会第三次全体会议”的缩写——这次会议于1978年召开，标志着中国向开放的市场迈出了第一步。

Today, Sanquan has seven factories nationwide. The largest, in which Chen and I were chatting, employs 5,000 workers and produces an astonishing 400

tons of dumplings a day. He showed me the factory floor from a glass-walled skywalk; below us, dozens of workers — in hooded white jumpsuits, white face masks and white galoshes — tended to nearly 100 dumpling machines lined up in rows inside a vast, white-tiled refrigerator. Every few minutes, someone in a pink jumpsuit would wheel a fresh vat of ground pork through the

stainless-steel double doors in the corner and use a shovel to top off the giant conical funnel on each dumpling maker. In the far corner, a quality-control inspector in a yellow jumpsuit was dealing with a recalcitrant machine, scooping defective dumplings off the conveyor belt with both hands. At the end of the line, more than 100,000 dumplings an hour rained like beige pebbles into an endless succession of open-mouthed bags.

如今，三全公司在全国拥有七家工厂。我和陈泽民就在其中最大的一家工厂中聊天，它拥有5000名员工，每天生产的饺子高达惊人的400吨。他带我走上一座带玻璃围墙的天桥，给我看厂房第一层；我们下面有几十个工人，穿着带头罩的白色连体衣，戴着白色口罩，穿白色胶鞋，照管着大约100台饺子机，它们在一台巨大的、贴着白色瓷砖的冷藏室里排列成行。每隔几分钟，一个穿着粉色连体衣的人就会把装满猪肉的大缸从角落里的不锈钢双层门中送进来，用铲子把猪肉填满饺子机上的巨大圆锥形漏斗。在屋子另一端，质量监督员穿着黄色连身衣操作一台很难摆弄的机器，它用两只手把有瑕疵的饺子从传送带上捞起来。在生产线尽头，每小时大约有10万多个饺子像米色的卵石一样落入无穷无尽、敞着口的包装袋中。

Scenes like this are being replicated all over Zhengzhou — a smoggy industrial city that, thanks to Chen?s ingenuity, has become the capital of frozen food in China. Sanquan?s rival, Synear, was founded in Zhengzhou in 1997, and the two companies account for nearly two-thirds of the country?s frozen-food

market. The city is home to five of the 10 biggest Chinese-owned companies in the industry, according to the weekly Frozen Food Newspaper, the industry?s only trade publication, which is also based in Zhengzhou. Growth has been especially rapid recently, with sales volume doubling in the past five years and expected to double again within the next five.

这样的景象在郑州还在不断复制——郑州是一座烟雾笼罩的工业城市，由于陈泽民的聪明才智，它已成为中国速冻食品之都。三全的竞争对手“思念”1997年在郑州创立，两家公司包揽了全国速冻食品市场的近2/3。这个工业内唯一的一份行业出版物，每周出版的《冷冻食品》也在郑州，据该报报道，这个行业最大的10家国有企业之中，有5家在郑州。近年来的增长尤其显著，在过去五年，销售量增加了一倍，未来五年中预计还将增加一倍。

When Chen founded Sanquan, fewer than one in 10 of his fellow citizens even owned a refrigerator. In the eastern megacities of Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Guangzhou, it wasn?t until the late 1980s — as electrical grids became more reliable and families had more disposable income — that refrigerators became a fixture of most homes. For second- and third-tier cities, like

Zhengzhou, they arrived even more slowly. But in the 12 years between 1995 and 2007, China?s domestic refrigerator-ownership numbers have jumped to 95 percent from just 7 percent of urban families.

陈泽民创立三全的时候，拥有冰箱的人家不到10%。在东部人口超过一百万的大城市，如北京、上海、深圳和广州，直到20世纪80年代末，供电网络更稳定，家庭也拥有更多可支配收入后，电冰箱才开始成为大多数家庭的必需品。在郑州这样的二三线城市，电冰箱的普及来得更加缓慢。但在从1995到2007年的12年间，中国的城市家庭电冰箱普及率从7%跃升到95%。

An artificial winter has begun to stretch across the country, through its fields and its ports, its logistics hubs and freeways. China had 250 million cubic feet of refrigerated storage capacity in 2007; by 2017, the country is on track to have 20 times that. At five billion cubic feet, China will surpass even the United States, which has led the world in cold storage ever since artificial refrigeration was invented. And even that translates to only 3.7 cubic feet of cold storage per capita, or roughly a third of what Americans currently have — meaning that the Chinese refrigeration boom is only just beginning.

本文来源：https://www.bwwdw.com/article/5zzd.html